Smart casuals

Smart casuals
Who says only women spend hours before the dresser! Men too are increasingly occupying the space, taking their own time selecting a wardrobe that gives them the uber-cool look.

They are freeing themselves from the noose of the tie and the humdrum blacks, greys and whites. Green is in, so is pink.

Formal wear has yielded ground to smart casuals. Jackets slip on to T-shirts and denim trousers fit fine on full-sleeve shirts. And nobody raises an eyebrow. Friday dressing is in, all round the week.

A degree of casualness has crept into the so-called art of formal dressing. The preference is for clothes that are striking but not loud. Casual rules, without taking away from the formal. The shift, however, has not affected men’s ability to make individual style statements.

Says leading designer Ravi Bajaj, “Casual and formals are now being merged. Getting dressed for the office doesn’t mean leaving your personal style behind. Clothes have got to be easy and indicate your state of mind.”

Over the past 15 years there has been a tectonic shift in the way executives dress. “There are no strict dress codes for any profession. Even bankers prefer not to dress up,” points out Bajaj.

His advice: while shopping for office wear, the focus should be on clothes that are trendy and wearable.

The suit remains the most favoured executive attire, says Marc Duhm, wholesale director of Versace. Many executives still prefer a two-piece suit at work. But “some go for readymades; others for couture collection or custom-made tailored suits,” he adds.

There are two categories of people who go in for tailor-made suits, says designer Bajaj. Those who don’t fit into the regular size, and those who prefer exclusivity. The latter group goes in for couture collection.

Some executives want to experiment with silk printed shirts or a diamond- buttoned or even printed jacket. But most young professionals now prefer ready-to-wear clothes that they can pick up off the shop hangers.

They offer a complete look and are easier to choose. “Although the top-notch segment goes in mostly for couture collection, some have started buying readymade jackets and trousers.”

Softer silhouettes are preferred at workplace. Says Bajaj, “Fashion-conscious businessmen want to look different. With a definite mindset, they know what they want to wear to work. Trendy office wear in newer fabrics that are masculine and not overpowering are the popular choice.”

“The underlying message is practicality and style.” The designer favours slight semi-structured formal linen suits. “Another look could be trousers in cotton spandex and polynosics with flat fronts and medium bottoms.”

Navigator bundgala is also in. The west has long accepted the bundgala as a much more fashionable option than the conventional suit. The jacket, also called a Nehru jacket, could be good office wear.

“A bundgala can be worn in different ways. It goes well over a shirt. One can also be casual and trendy by wearing a bundgala jacket over jeans. Or, one can put on a slim-fit bundgala shirt under a regular jacket. There is always the option of wearing a suit minus a tie. Also, a jacket can be worn unbuttoned for a relaxed look,” says Bajaj.

He wonders why the bundgala, seen on the red carpet all over the world, is only seen in India on politicians and at weddings. “One can actually wear this suit through the year. Just like conventional suits these can be made in a variety of designs in a variety of fabrics -- pinstripes, checks, plaids and solids. Considering its versatile nature, it’s time we should allow the bundgala to find a place in the corporate wardrobe,” he adds.

Dressing trends change over time, more so faster for women than for men. But since the nineties power dressing for men has undergone a lot of change in terms of style and colour. “Previously, office wear was extremely conventional and classic. Today’s office-goer has abundant choices. Looking at the trends, executives prefer the slim collared well-fitted shirts in checks, stripes and solids,” says Duhm,

According to Sandeep Khapra, head designer of Blackberrys, the brand which designs formal lines, a new look with a slightly sharp design and perfect fit can be a perfect selection for office formals.

Right accessories complete the look. Picking the right accessories is as important as choosing the right clothes. Wearing proper shoes, a belt, a tie and a watch — that complete the ensemble — adds pizzazz to a man’s personality. Bajaj rues that the most ignored accessory today is the tie. He believes it is important in and completes formal wear.

“A good tie can actually become a style statement. Other accessories like shoes, watches and bags are equally important. The belt and shoes should preferably be of same colour,” he says.

Colour again plays a vital role. Though white, black, navy blue and grey have been men’s preferred choice for years, executives now are more experimental and try a whole range of colours.

“They now prefer blue, pink, mauve in shirts, though suits are still preferred in shades of grey and black,” says Duhm. Concurs Bajaj, who says the colour pink, which was earlier worn only by women, has now found its place in men’s wardrobe. “The colour actually looks great on men.”

Giving some tips on dressing the right way, Khapra says: “One should never wear socks that don’t complement the shoes and also avoid combinations that do not carry the tonality of the garments.” He says the last button of your suit should be left open and the tip of your tie should touch the top of your belt.

There has definitely been a considerable foreign influence on the way Indian men dress up. Work places are less formal and forbidding, and there is a lot of influence of international work cultures and attitude.

Referring to the foreign brands now available in India, Duhm says that people are getting “more brandish” and open to international brands. “They know the kind of attire worn indicates your profession. Colour, fit, style, design can reflect the mood and attitude, and speak volumes for your profession and competency,” he adds.

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