Indian designers, besides pandering to the whims and wishes of foreign buyers and stores,

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also feel that the use of imported fabrics adds to the value of their creations. When the Government of India recently banned the import of fabrics from China there was heartburn amongst the fashion fraternity as they felt they would not be able to get cheap fabric and would now have to buy expensive ones from India thus making their creations more expensive.

But these 21st century haute couture Indian designers forget that India’s heritage in the textile world has remained unmatched for centuries. Alexander the Great loved our muslin. Our brocades and cottons have been adored by invaders as well as foreign designers. Yet Indian designers ignore our rich heritage and rush to buy cheap synthetic fabrics. Khadi, which Gandhiji created to give employment to the millions in India, is completely ignored. In cotton or blended with silk, linen, jute or wool; handspun or woven, Khadi is the perfect unique fabric for all climates.

Except for a few designers like Ritu Kumar, Pallavi Jaikishan, Somitra Mondal, Bela Parekh, Anuradha Vakil, Vidhi Singhania, Sunaina Suneja and Gaba who promote Indian fabrics, the rest are slaves to mundane fabrics. Khadi and the many beautiful weaves like ikat, Patola, Patihani, Ashaval, Maheshwari, Kanjeevaram, Kotah and Chanderi provide Indian creations with that exclusive touch which chiffon, georgette, satin and net can never achieve. When foreign buyers come to India they are looking for that distinctly Indian influence which can blend beautifully with foreign silhouettes and Indian textiles are able to do just that. No doubt working with Indian weavers can be a trying task, but that is where designers can help to give modern inputs and encouragement so that weavers can continue with these traditional textiles that may soon vanish from the fashion scene.

The fashion week organisers like the Fashion Design Council of India, Lakme Fashion Week and Delhi Fashion Week can start by prompting Khadi and should make it mandatory for every Indian designer to present one collection in Indian textiles. The forthcoming Kolkata Fashion Week has announced that it will promote Bengal’s rich weaves which is heartening news.

Fashion institutes too must insist on students working with weavers for their garments. The various textile and craft associations should also work closely with the designers so that supplies are more regular. The usual complaint is that Khadi and other fabrics are stuck in red tape when it comes to production. It’s time that a new synergy is created between designers and traditional fabric makers so that the Indian fashion industry gives something really outstanding to the world of style. The promotion of Indian textiles has to be from all sources so that the country’s weavers don’t forsake their great art.