Colour me bright
Feb 21 2013
So the time approaches for the sun to beat down on your head. Presenting what’s in vogue for spring/summer 2013
According to designer Gautam Gupta, the Kitsch look is in, with vibrant colours and digital prints of African safari, tribal-inspired and a splash of the aquatic world that makes up for Spring Summer 2013 inspiration. Tangerine and neon shades with colours such as fuschia, electric blue and emerald green rule the palette. His collection titled Chilli Strawberry is the designer’s first attempt at self-created digital prints. The abstract prints are inspired from African tribal to floral to mosaic to effect like splash and drops in bright tones of neon greens, Prussian blue, electric blue, aqua, pale orange, emerald green, mango green, icy green and others. These were used in asymmetrical silhouettes and cuts to give shape to jackets, hot pants, tunics and kaftans. The fabric used for the prints are georgette, cotton linen, linen, cotton, satin and lycra.
There is suddenly a big demand for more natural fabrics to suit the weather. Designer Jai Singh from the label Parvesh and Jai says, “Pure fabrics such as cotton, silk and linen take centre stage.” Colour blocking continues to be a big summer trend. Their collection titled Celebration of Colours comprises resort wear with loose silhouettes. Flouncy maxi dresses with almost 30-40 metres fabric with a Victorian look at the same time make up the collection. “What is different this season is that there is less of surface ornamentation and just loads of fabric to define an airy, breezy feel,” feels Jai. Anything synthetic is an absolute no-no for this season, which is why lace is no more as prevalent as last year. However, the use of Chantilly lace in just small traces at the corners of patters will be visible this season.
The fabric has in a way become king this season, as the designs come with an emphasis on the “feel” as an expression. Designer Jattinn Kochhar has designed a whole range of organic healing clothing called Tatha Vastram for the season, which will be retailed out of the wellness brand Tatha. Jattinn says, “The fabric has healing property and has been made by a slow elaborate process whereby the yarn is hand spun, dipped into essential oils, dried and made on handloom.” The inherent quality of a pure fabric, Jattinn says, is that it can keep one cool in summer and warm in winter. The line is completely free of synthetic chemicals and toxic irritants and is completely organic, sustainable and biodegradable.
Jattinn also believes this is a season with a lot of choice. He says, “While the metallic look so far was only associated with winters, it is a big trend for the season along with jewel tones such as fiery red, sparkling blue and deep purple. At the same time old-time favourites such as monochromes, black and whites, check pattern will also be in vogue.” The trends this season are reminiscent of the 80s. The whole sporty and even androgynous look is marked by oversized jumpers, mesh jackets, elephant pants or baggies and big shoulder tops. Biker/bomber jackets too are quite the rage with top brands internationally. Androgynous styles such as dresses pinned up with biker jackets and tailored suits with bare mid riff are expected to fuel the trend.
It is also the season of ‘relaxed aesthetics’ or ‘minimalistic luxury’ as designer Uravashi Kaur puts it. Titled Towareg or Desert Retreats, Urvashi’s collection offers loose shapes, delicate fold and fluid drapes. The earthy vibe is supported by a restrained colour palette, that is another alternative for the season, with white neutral, elephant grey, taupe sand, ecru, indigo and a bright splash of yellow. Short kurtas is a fad that has come to be synonymous with the season. In keeping with the light and airy style Designer Anuradha Ramam’s collection titled Junoon comprises kurtas, anarkalis, skirts, halters, kaftans, palazzos — all in vibrant colours balanced by white. “Kurtas with tribal embroidery and kalamkari prints along with georgette pants that look like ghararas with lots of volumes is a sought after look,” says Anuradha.
The Indian summer is a time filled with tranquility and colour. The season of Amaranthus, Chrysanthemum, Chuski, Holi and Baisakhi often inspires the colour and playful side within us. Taking inspiration from the summer originals, designer Niki Mahajan has created a collection, rightfully titled Under the Summer Sun that is reminiscent of the playful summer that has been long forgotten since our childhood days. A journey back and remembering the joy of those summer months, Niki has created a collection full of colours that pop and fabrics that mischievously play with each other. The collection is filled with fluorescent and neon colours like acidic lime, tangerine orange, lemon yellow and raspberry pink. Niki says, “Keeping the scorching summer in mind the collection has been made using easy flowing silhouettes with extensive use of gossamer fabrics like Tulle, chiffon and georgette. Opaque and sheer fabrics have been effortlessly combined to create a seamlessly Juxtaposed look.” To embellish the fabrics the designer has created happy floral patterns and used matte neon sequins, a special type of sequins that helps in controlling the bling, but at the same time increases the versatility of colours. Niki has also continued to texture the fabrics using her own special methods of block printing, incorporating the right look for the season.