FOOD, all over the world, evolves around the ingredients that are native to that area. So the desert foods of Rajasthan are influenced by Rajasthan's geography and social conditions. Dry deserts with long hot summers mean that many types of food were a rarity here and the preservation of food became a major concern, especially as a race of warriors had to often adjust to war situations.

They, therefore, needed food that could last for several days after they had been prepared and could be eaten later without the need of cooking again.

As water was scarce and vegetables, till quite recent times, were unavailable for most times of the year, Rajasthani cooking had to adopt food items that could be dried and preserved. In the arid desert zones of Jaisalmer, Barmer and Bikaner, the preferred food had to be made with the minimum of water and fresh vegetables. Milk, buttermilk and clarified butter were plentiful and were used with the liberal use of spices, especially red chilly powder to compensate for the lack of fresh vegetables.

Dried lentils and beans from plants such as sarigri and ker were frequently used. Gram flour was a major ingredient and was used to make some of the fascinating delicacies such as khata, gatta ki sabzi and pakodi. Lentils were also powdered to prepare mangodi, badi and papad. Bajia and corn are used over a large area of the state to prepare rabdi, kheechdi and rotis. Fascinating chutneys were made from locally available spices such as turmeric, dried mangoes, coriander, mint, onion, ginger and garlic. The most fascinating Rajasthani recipe is the combination of dal or lentil, baati or atta batties, which are prepared by making small atta (flour) balls with ghee and baking them in an open fire. These are also eaten as a dessert called churma when it is mixed with gur and a big helping of pure ghee. Wheat was unknown in southern Rajasthan till only some 30 years ago and people mostly ate bajara and millet chappatis.

These two grains need the minimum of water and are best suited to dessert conditions.

Fascinating Rajasthan cuisines vary from region to region with different castes and different regions having slightly different preferences. Perhaps, due to lack of fresh vegetables and the abundance of goats and sheep the people of Rajasthan tended to prefer non-vegetarian food.

Many sweet dishes were, however, necessary to compliment the dry and spicy main dishes.

The Kachwaha family of Jaipur is believed to have been the originator of a delicacy called Safed Maans or white meat. The preparation is white in colour and is prepared from white mutton, coconut, poppy seeds and curd. Jaipur is also famous for its sweets such as Mishri Mawa, Ghevar and Kalakand. The last is a very sweet milk cake that is also called `palang tor' or bed breaker. APPLE CRUMBLE Gatte ki Sabzi INGREDIENTS 200 gm besan (gram flour) 2 tomatoes medium size (finely chopped) 1 onion medium size (finely chopped) 4 green chillies (finely chopped) 1 tbsp ginger and garlic paste, cumin seed ½ tbsp turmeric powder, mustard paste ¼ tbsp red chilly powder, coriander powder A pinch of Asafoetida ½ tbsp carom (ajwain) seed ¼ tbsp garam masala Oil, salt to taste and water METHOD Mix the besan, 2 green chillies, carom, 1/8 tbsp chili powder and 1 tbsp oil. Add water into besan to make a dough. Out of the dough, roll a 1 cm diameter roll 5-6 inches long. Put it into boiling water and boil for 10 minutes. Take it out of the water and cut the besan roll into small pieces and keep aside.

Heat oil, add asafoetida, cumin seeds, 2 green chillies and stir-fry well. Add ginger garlic paste and mustard paste, and heat for a minute. Add chopped onion, cook for 3 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes and cook again for 2 minutes. Add turmeric powder, red chilly powder, coriander powder, salt, garam masala and 1.5 cup water and boil for 5 minutes. Now the gravy is ready. Put gatte into gravy and boil for 3 minutes.