The recent fashion weeks in New Delhi displayed, apart from the many foreign faces

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on the ramp, clothes that were instinctively upbeat and elevating. The feel-good factor came with flowing silhouettes, bold patterns, contrasting colour combinations and funky cuts.

Rina Dhaka’s collection, titled Bohemian Lure, used vintage styles of tasteful embroideries, picked up from Rajasthan. Dhaka says, “All the design vocabulary was hand-picked from Rajasthan. The bright palette of soft spring colours, embellishments and innovative use of Indian cuts added up to provide a common appeal.”

The neo-hippy look is added by raglan sleeves, twill silk choli bustier, cotton silk hand embroideries, lycra dresses with asymmetric hems, fluid silhouettes, tents, mirror silk jersey with tie- and- dye and shaded sheath with hand embroidery.

The fabrics used in the collection are cotton silk, silk jersey, silk georgette, plisse and chiffon. These fabrics form a perfect base for the decorative placement of prints, which make the assortment vivid. Hints of dori work and rick-rack lace lend a grunge look to the creation with an underlying tribal femininity.

While the Urban Instinct collection by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna is, according to them, “an ode to joy”, the garments are a gamut of forms combined in a feast of options that come together seamlessly and beautifully, each synergising into a creative ensemble. Boxy skirts, engineered volume blouses, knee length sheath dresses and pleated shorts complemented draped jumpsuits.

According to Khanna, even the formals carry a buoyant look. He says, “Cowl dresses and shirts are with asymmetric plackets and machine appliquéd techniques to give a twist to the classic urban chic.”

Sand, pebble-grey backgrounds have been offset by organic lime, spring fuchsia, cadmium coral, cobalt blue and orchid purple, all drawing inspiration from nature. Fabrics for this unpredictable range of sophisticated summer wear are linen, silk taffeta, voiles, printed georgettes, silk jersey and ombre dyed chiffons.

The rock-band that supported Rehane’s presentation, Live on the Ramp, created an arresting backdrop for the most delicate and flowing crepes in interesting colour combinations.

Rehane says, “Despite the

collection being an evening ensemble, I wanted it to have an overall impression of being fresh and young looking.”

Her range for spring/summer 2009 comes in naughty short silhouettes, including dresses and pant-top combinations. Well- contoured corset tops and bustiers are coordinated with flowing pleated skirts with contrast lining peeping effectively, thus creating an eye-catching moment. The colour palette, which includes subdued shades as well as bright tones, has been effectively contrasted through bold and bright 3D flowers in crochet and beadwork. The contours and style-lines of skirts and dresses have been highlighted through trimmings and bindings in vivid colours.

Ruching and pleating play a main role in creating lively textures for most of the ensemble. The small collection of eveningwear includes tight- sheath dresses which are fully sequined and have borders of bright red flowers around the hemline or the waistline, enhanced with rich bead- and stonework.

The collection of New York based designer Vivienne Tam, who’ll soon be opening a store in India, spells class with a touch of light-heartedness.

Embroidered, appliquéd, pleated, shirred and cutworks are some of the discreet textures that lend a special aura to the collection. The collection expresses freshness in floral landscapes juxtaposed with linear pinstripes, displayed flattering, and confident contemporary outfits. The fabric choice spans chiffon, canvas, satin, wool, patent leather and cotton.

The silhouettes are influenced by the 70s retro look. This is evident in the flowing maxi dresses, ruffled necklines and sleeves, big pockets on knee- length shorts and the knee- length dresses. The collection reflects an eclectic mix of the ultra feminine with a hint of masculinity in the fitted pinstriped waistcoats and jackets with matching and glamorous footwear.

As Vivienne says, “Nobody needs to look like a Christmas tree, it’s all about exuding a self-expression of understated style while keeping the spirit alive.”