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From a dainty sprinkling to a dense medley of flowery bursts, the new season’s line-up is sure to resemble a garden of fantasy. Designer Rana Gill describes it as “very lyrical and contemplative”. Much like the time of the year. Her collection Autumn Garden endeavours to integrate the magic and romance of one. And the process involves “lots of layering” which is when one fabric is set on another for a “swish feel”, like, cashmere wraps on dresses or generous use of lace atop a dress. The fabrics spell luxury as they are in brocade, staple jersey and heavy weight silk embossed with floral designs.
For the sake of fantasy, designers are also employing new techniques such as splicing for “added drama”. It is amply evident in the collection titled ‘Alice in Wonderland’ by Shalini and Paras. “Splicing is when four to five layers of fabrics are embroidered together and ripped open from places to unfold a burst of colours,” says Shalini. But while they are definitely “swish”, they also qualify for lounge wear; the underlying principle designers are using to make their clothes look easy yet exotic. To make it easy-flowing the designers are fusing fabrics such as creating cotton net and gauze silk for a more fragile look. Their attempt in creating a “delicate” look has in fact led them to “foiling of fabrics”, which is when plastic is worn into the fabric to add sparkle and interest to the fabric. According to Shalini, “it adds shimmer and plays peek-a-boo with the onlooker”.
Another style catching the fancy of our designers that also many forecast will be the next rage is the Cozy that is a wrap-on for a “more sensuous look”. Designer Anjali Kapoor describes it as, “a new concept stole with sleeves in materials like stretched satin and stretched lycra that’ll automatically make one look dressy .”
A flashback from the past that is inspiring the designers is the shift dress of the 1950s that is a slim-fitting dress which barely covers the knee. It was initially quite popular in stripes and floral patterns. This time around, “with a lot more detailing”. According to designer Namrata Joshipura, “Different sized sequins will be put together for an overlapped feel and fish-scale texture will help add shimmer naturally.” The thread work also borrows resemblance to the romantic styling Victorian period that’ll be evident on soft fabrics and trims. The single thread embroidery on tapestry like borders of the dresses is what is expected to really add charm to the drama. Going by the old adage, God is in the details, this is sure to be one divine experience.




















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