Berlin is scruffy, people are rude (they call it Schnauze), and when you walk down the streets, you have to watch out for dog shit and broken beer bottles. It gets worse in winter – if you reach out, you can almost touch the gloom. Yet, Chris Trott, an Australian backpacker, who had stopped en route, almost a decade ago, never left Berlin. Here’s the thing about Berlin: You are more likely to fall in love with it, warts and all. Such is its bohemian charm. Mind you, if you want to experience the bohemian Berlin, you have to navigate Berlin’s underbelly. Read on if you are game. If not, you are better off logging onto www.berlin.de for the tried and tested tourist itineraries.

First things first, you have to visit a “squat”. In Berlin, “squats” are larger than legend: They proclaim themselves proudly, encourage art and do their bit to the community (mostly in the form of Völksküche or Vöku or people’s kitchen, which serves delicious vegan food, real cheap). But I would skip Tacheles, the most talked about, if I were you, unless you are really into art: It has become awfully touristy. Head to Friedrichschain instead. The former East Berlin neighbourhood has more than its share of “squats”. My favourite is Café Cralle in Wedding.

Generally, great time to visit Berlin is between late March and late October. If you are there in July and August, reserve an afternoon just to laze around in a park nearby (no matter where you stay, you will find a lush green one near you). If you are still looking for references: Tiergarten for a more secluded relaxation; Mauer Park and Görlitzer Park, if you like feel like listening to musicians jam; Preußenpark aka Thai Park if you fancy some authentic Thai fares in between, served hot and spicy by the Thai Community in Berlin (only on Sundays); Müggelsee if you feel like a dip in the lake. Spread that blanket, lie down, sip that ice cold beer and absorb the good vibes around you. Pure luxury. Although Berlin is easily the worst dressed European capital city, it does have indie-labels that spell attitude with a big fat A. Boxahagener Platz in Frie­drichschain, Schönhauser Allee in Prenzlauer Berg, Rosenthaler Platz, Hackescher Markt are the places to head to. Bergmannstraße has quite a few second hand shops that stock up retro fashion. If you are visiting during January or July, you are in luck, sales are on.

The art galleries in August Straße are a must, if you are an art aficionado. While you are at it, try and spot the sprayed bananas, a project of Cologne based artist Thomas Baumgärtel. Apparently, it’s an unofficial logo of the art scene.

There is practically a club for every kind of music in Berlin. Tresor and Berghain are of course the ubercool techno legends. Kitkat, the fetish paradise. But Berlin is also into burlesque. Catch live shows at CCCP Club in Rosenthaler Platz. Bassy Club, just a street away, is a great place to show off your burlesque moves.

Your Bohemian Berlin experience is not complete without a jazz concert. My favourite is an underground jazz bar called Kunstfabrik Schlot, Mondays free entry.

Oh yeah, if you are into cheap thrills like me, check gratis-in-berlin.de. It lists things to do for free.